Thinking Inside The Box: The Kodak No. 2!
Thinking Inside The Box: The Kodak No. 2 Cartridge Hawk-Eye Model C / Blog by Brian Moore
When released in 1900 the Kodak Brownie box camera made photography for the masses possible and gave rise to a new word: snapshot. For the first time in history ordinary people could record images of their lives and surroundings easily and relatively cheaply. It was a remarkable achievement for Mr. George Eastman.
Yet perhaps the most remarkable thing about these century old cameras is that so many of them are still around, and better yet still function!
Like many FPPers I like getting my hands on vintage cameras and in recent months the notion of shooting an old box camera began to gather appeal. So I started a casual, somewhat passive search. Then I saw a picture posted by one of my Flickr contacts (and FFP regular listener) Bill Millen.
Bill’s photo of the Drygate Flats and Concert Hall in Glasgow, a double-exposure shot with a Kodak Brownie No. 2 Model F and Ektar film is a wonderful abstract that proves 100 year-old cameras don’t belong in the dust heap.

Drygate Flats & Concert Hall, by Bill Millen
Thanks to Bill, my casual search was suddenly intense; I now knew I needed an old Brownie, and I needed it now!
E-Bay soon led me to a "Kodak No. 2 Cartridge Hawk-Eye Model C," circa 1926-34. The Hawk-Eye isn’t a “Brownie” per se. Indeed, the original Hawk-Eyes weren’t even Kodaks. The name arrived via the Blair Camera Company, which became a division of Kodak in 1907. But the Hawk-Eye is certainly close enough in concept and execution to what I was looking for.
Esthetically my Hawk-Eye is in near perfect condition. The leatherette is pristine, and the name brand embossed in its back cover is as fresh and crisp as it must have been the day it came out of the factory: “Eastman Kodak Co. Rochester New York. Use Film No. 120. ” The leather handle and its embossing is near perfect, too. Indeed, it’s as if this camera had been hidden away unused for 90-odd years, like “new-old stock.”
A restoration job, perhaps? Maybe, but this doesn’t make total sense because the viewfinder is as dim as you might expect from an unrestored camera of this vintage.

Crane on Terminal Island, by Brian Moore
Using The Hawk-Eye Cartridge Model C
If you’re looking to shoot with an old Kodak camera you need to consider the film requirements of the various models. Kodak promoted a number of formats back in the day, and most have gone the way of the dodo bird. The Hawk-Eye uses 120 film, still readily available, and yielding eight 6x9 cm negatives.
I think my Hawk-Eye may have been for Kodak what today we’d call a “cost down” model. It has but one shutter speed. I think it’s about 1/40th (although I haven’t seen definitive statement on that yet). It also has but one aperture: f11.
Light reaches the film through a rotary shutter that sits in front of a meniscus lens. The shutter basically serves as a lens cap! But looking at these old cameras for the first time you may wonder—as I did—where’s the glass?
There is no tripod bushing, but you don’t need it, since you have no bulb mode and with its frugal f11 aperture this camera is made for daylight shots, even with today’s fast films.

Rocks at White Point, by Brian Moore
There’s only a single viewfinder, positioned for a vertically oriented image. Portrait mode, I guess that would be. This to me is something of a limitation, since I prefer to shoot landscape-oriented images most of the time. I can still do that of course, but it’s a bit of a guess as to what I’ll get in the frame.

On Signal Hill, by Brian Moore
Focusing is simple, though. It’s fixed-focus you see, so you just need to make sure you stand back far enough from your subject. Anything eight feet away and beyond will be sharp, although Kodak suggested in the user’s manual that “objects as near as six feet, while not as sharp, will be sharp enough for all practical purposes.”

Joey, lobster fisherman, by Brian Moore
(I guess he was only six feet away.)
The shutter release on the Hawk-Eye is a single-throw lever. Push it down once, it trips the shutter; push it back up, it trips the shutter again. Winding to the next frame is done with a key next to the shutter lever.
It’s all very simple, and indeed that is by design. Because this camera, like the old box Brownies and others of the era, is a true point & shoot. It frees you up to stop worrying about exposure values; you can concentrate on the main thing: framing a good picture.
Image quality is remarkably good in my opinion. My particular camera seems to have a small film alignment problem, since the images aren’t precisely rectangular. I don’t care. It ads to the charm!

A Few of the Chaps I play Soccer with, by Brian Moore
Box cameras abound on E-Bay, and you’re sure to see the occasional example in flea markets, garage sales, antique shops and the like. You should have no trouble picking up a working model for under $20.00. So why not get one? Save an antique and take some old-timey snapshots while you’re at it.
Brian Moore has been a photography nut since his early teens when he got his first camera, a Polaroid 210 Automatic Land Camera. Many cameras have come and gone since then but Brian’s enthusiasm for the photographic craft, its history, and the little light-tight boxes that make it all possible remains.



Comments
Thank you for reading and commenting on my article Jason. I really appreciate it. Good for you for shooting with an old Brownie! Must be a huge bummer for the rear door to fall open when there's film in there. Have you tried gaffers tape to secure the rear door on it? Thanks again, Jason.
Interesting article!! I was shocked at the quality of what you were able to get out of that old camera.
Thank you, cepwin,...I appreciate your comments. You can get good images with these old box cameras, and I think that would surprise many people. Thanks again.
Thank you for your comments shakmati. Much appreciated. They're certainly fun to shoot, these old box cameras!
Thanks for your comments, Antony. Nice picture, too. (I expect your average Holga isn't likely to last a hundred years like so many Brownies have, but they provide a look that some find interesting and artistic. They have their place I think.) Thanks again.
Thank you, Derek. So you've retrofitted a Brownie or something like that to take 35mm? Good for you! (Sprocket holes in the images too I imagine?) Anyway, it's nice to hear of another old camera getting a new lease on life. Thanks again.
Thanks for your comments, Ted! And good for you for bringing that old camera back into the light of day. Would love to see some pictures from it.
Hi Richard. First, thank you for reading my article. Secondly, thank you for taking the time to post a comment. Finally, I'm not familiar with the book you mention regarding the photography of Jack London, nevertheless I am deeply appreciative of the comparison.
By the way, I took a brief look at your website and although I only had a moment to glance at it I have to say it sure looks like a fun read. I'll be looking at it more closely very soon.
Thanks again, Richard. Your comments are much appreciated, and I'll soon be looking to find a copy of the Jack London book.
Do it, Denis! And post some pics!
Derek,...thank you for the lengthy and detailed explanation. I really appreciate that you took the time. You've given me some ideas. Also, I really like your philosophy regarding cameras designed to shoot now unavailable film. There's probably always some way to make a current film work. Thanks again.
Alexis,...if your camera is the same as mine it takes 120 film, which is available at good local camera shops nationwide, or suppliers such as Freestyle, B&H, Adorama and so on. However, check to be sure your camera actually uses 120 film. Some old box cameras were designed to take 620 film. If the camera itself doesn't have a label or some embossing on it telling you what film, cross-check on the web using the name/model number of your camera. You'll find the answer pretty quick. Thanks for your questions.
Thanks for your comments, Suzanne.
The counter isn't displaying? Hmmm...
You shouldn't need to resort to trial and error. The frame numbers are on the backing paper of the film. If the film is loaded properly, and if the little red window through which you see the numbers is not somehow obscured, you should see film markings as you advance the film.
There's actually quite a lot of leader on a 120 spool. Perhaps you just need to wind on further for the markings to become visible?
Post new comment